Skincare ingredients come and go like clothing trends. Every year, there are ingredients that take the spotlight. It's tough to decide which ingredients are actually worth mixing into your skincare routine and which just aren't worth the hype.
In 2022, we saw active ingredients like azelaic acid, niacinamide, retinaldehyde, and tranexamic acid take center stage. In 2023, we're making a U-turn and focusing mostly on gentle, skin barrier–supporting ingredients that focus on rebuilding and soothing skin rather than sloughing off skin cells.
1. Colostrum
If you've heard of colostrum before, you might be raising your eyebrows. If you've never heard of it, allow me to introduce you—it's the first breastmilk that the body produces during pregnancy. While it might not sound like the most appealing ingredient to smear on your face, it's going to trend in a major way in 2023. Don't worry—in skincare, this ingredient is sourced from cows (which is why you might see bovine colostrum crop up more and more). There's more research to be done as this ingredient breaks onto the scene, but colostrum could be a major key to a healthy skin barrier, as it's packed with protein, fatty acids, and nutrients.
2. Linoleic Acid
Linoleic acid, also known as vitamin F, keeps finding its way into new product formulations—and for good reason. This polyunsaturated fatty acid is essential to supporting your epidermal barrier. It helps skin retain water and stay moisturized for longer.
3. Algae
Algae are incredibly popular in skincare, and their star status is only rising. It's actually an all-encompassing term: If you see kelp, seaweed, or spirulina on an ingredient list, they're all types of algae. Consider algae the leafy green vegetables of the sea—packed with proteins, amino acids, lipids, and other vital nutrients that your skin needs to be at its best.
4. Blue Tansy
These delicate Moroccan flowers have found their way into many skincare formulas recently. Blue tansy has been used by oncologists to help calm skin after radiation treatments, which is a testament to its calming and anti-inflammatory powers.
5. Kombucha
Kombucha isn't just everyone's favorite drink for gut health—it's also being blended into skincare, as it's packed with B vitamins and lactic acid, which help repair the skin barrier and brighten skin.
6. Shrooms
No, not that kind of shrooms. Mushrooms have become major players in skincare formulas. Tremella mushrooms specifically are having a moment. These fungi are hydration superheroes that pull moisture into the skin similarly to hyaluronic acid.
7. Sea Fennel
Sea fennel kind of looks like oceanic tumbleweed, and it's starting to gain momentum in the skincare sphere. This plant is packed with compounds like vitamin C, fatty acids, minerals, and phenolics, making it a force to be reckoned with for brightening and rejuvenating skin.
Contact: Ben Lee
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E-mail: ben@dephincosmetics.com
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